The stones

So much of watchmaking is about science and engineering. The profile of a gear’s teeth, the mass of a repeater’s hammer, the tension in a mainspring. But watchmaking is also poetry. It is, in a very real way, an attempt to harness one of the universe’s most basic principles – time – and to carry it around on our wrists.

At Biver, we indulge this sense of poetry through the use of stone dials in all of our watches. This makes each watch as unique as the piece of stone itself, and it nods to the unique journey each watch will take once it leaves our workshops.

There is a long tradition of using stones – precious and otherwise – in jewelry and watches, across cultures and across the globe. Human beings have seemingly always been drawn to the rich colors, sparkling surfaces, and sense of drama that these organic marvels display. Over time, various cultures have attached specific meanings to specific stones, believing they promote vitality or a sense of mental clarity, for example. While we don’t suggest any specific meanings for our stone dials, we do believe these natural materials give off a particular energy and imbue the watches with an extra sense of life.

“Even though today our beliefs have evolved somewhat under the influence of science and Cartesian thought, deep down we still believe in the beneficial effects of stones and the influence of their waves. The stones also remind us of the values ​​our ancestors attributed to them." – Jean-Claude Biver, Co-Founder.

When looking at materials for the Carillon Tourbillon, we looked at a mix of traditional and not-so-traditional stones. Each was picked for particular aesthetic qualities and to work in the context of each watch’s overall design, but each stone also had to meet certain sound criteria, so that it would not negatively impact the sound of the chimes. Ultimately we used the following nine types of stones across the nine variations of the Carillon Tourbillon:

Blue Sodalite

A rich blue crystal with streaking white veins, Sodalite is hard and fragile. This makes it extremely difficult to work with at the scale of a watch dial, but the results are well worth the trouble.

Coeur de Rubis

Coeur de Rubis brings much of the same vibrance as its gemstone cousin, but with a more magenta-toned hue and fine grains of black and white throughout. This gives it a rich and unique surface texture.

Silver Obsidian

Silver Obsidian can vary in color from charcoal-gray to light grey, with characteristic iridescent swirls throughout. For our dials, we selected warm, charcoal grey sections to fully show off the natural variations in this stone, literally born at the center of the earth.

Diamond

While diamonds can take many shapes, we favor baguette-cut diamonds because of their refinement and sophistication. They favor clarity and have a timelessness to them that feels at home in our watches.

Black Obsidian

A volcanic stone similar in structure to glass, deep, glossy black Obsidian was used by prehistoric humans to fashion everything from sharp, durable tools to spiritual and mystical objects. It’s a material as enchanting as it is beautiful.

Malachite

The signature rich green color and iridescent lighter green stripes make Malachite easy to spot, even when used with restraint in the Carillon Tourbillon Malachite Openwork. The organic colors and visual intensity lend a lively spirit to a highly technical watch.

Onyx

Variété d’agate, l’Onyx est apprécié depuis l’Antiquité pour sa couleur noire brillante avec des variations et des motifs subtils. La surface naturellement brillante représente un canevas idéal à travailler, comme dans la Carillon Tourbillon La Danse Du Temps.

Opal

Unlike that of any other stone, Opal’s unique structure (a lattice of microscopic spheres) causes it to glow with iridescent colors that shift and dance as it moves through the light. Referred to as its “fire,” this means an opal will never look exactly the same twice.

Sapphire

Precious blue sapphires are extremely versatile in watchmaking. They make a bold visual statement, especially when cut and set in unexpected ways, but they are also scratch-resistant and can be used to equal effect inside and outside a watch.

Jade

For millennia, people across the globe have fashioned objects of importance from jade. Most commonly it is found in iridescent shades of green and it seems to carry an almost mystical attraction, transcending generations and cultures.