Concealing Complication

When first encountering the new Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series Titanium and Signature Series Two-Tone, you would be forgiven for not immediately realizing what you’re looking at. The watches present as minimal two-hand timepieces with dials reminiscent of those found on the Automatique. However, once you notice the minute repeater slide on the cases’ left sides, you know immediately that there is much more to the story of these new creations.

Both of these Signature Series watches are built around the familiar Calibre JCB-001-B that has powered the Carillon Tourbillon since its introduction as Biver’s first watch in 2023. The big difference is that these versions do away with the typical openworking and dial cut-outs, instead opting to hide the tourbillon behind their dials for a more restrained look. It’s a minimalist take on maximalist watchmaking.

To begin the Signature Series, we opted for two different flavors that each bring their own personality to the collection. The Signature Series Titanium has a pure, monochromatic look and is extremely light on the wrist for such a complex timepiece, while the Signature Series Two-Tone combines titanium and 18k 5N rose gold for a vintage-inspired look that still benefits from titanium’s unique aesthetic and acoustic properties.

“The idea of ‘heavy and complex’ originated at a time when high-end watches were primarily crafted in platinum. Back then, weight was often associated with quality,” says co-founder Jean-Claude Biver. “Today, that perception is evolving. We’re constantly resisting the temptation to abandon our aesthetic principles just to follow trends, and while we still believe in the original concept, we would never compromise on material performance or design integrity.”

One of the most striking things about these watches is their aesthetic harmony and purity of vision. Titanium is notoriously difficult to shape and finish because of its strength, but the Signature Series cases and bracelets show off the incredible effects that can be achieved with both careful brushing and polishing, giving the watches tremendous dynamism on the wrist. Likewise, the dials and hands are crafted from 18k gold for both models, giving even the all-titanium version a subtle two-tone effect created by the varied finishes on the dial’s sectors. Coaxing out the natural beauty of traditional watchmaking materials has always been central to Biver’s house watchmaking style and here the properties of gold and titanium are juxtaposed to great effect, creating an unexpected harmony perfectly suited to the Carillon Tourbillon’s architecture and design.

“The Automatique was clearly an inspiration when designing the Carillon Titanium Signature Series,” says co-founder Pierre Biver. “By pairing this dial – with its mixed finishes, applied markers, and three-dimensional chemin de fer – with our house grand complication, we have added an additional layer of nobility to the design.”

One of the great joys of watches like these is just how personal they can be. The light feel on the wrist, the hidden complications, and the stories behind them are entirely for the wearer and those with whom they choose to share them. They’re watches that whisper rather than shout and that require interaction to truly reveal themselves. They offer us new ways to explore watchmaking art and to interpret the core ideas that animate Biver as a brand – and we’re still just getting started.