Setting Stones

When Biver unveiled its first watches to the world in March 2023, they were watches with hard stones dials. Likewise, when the Automatique debuted last year, the Atelier Series utilized Pietersite and Obsidian dials to great effect, carrying over this dedication to rare natural materials. With the introduction of the Automatique Quartzite and Automatique Lavender Jade, Biver continues to explore this idea – and to push it further than ever before.

Both the Quartzite and Lavender Jade Automatique models begin with platinum cases and are offered in similar configurations to their predecessors, with 18k white gold hands and hour markers, an applied 18k white gold chemin de fer, and the choice of either a complementary strap or a platinum Biver bracelet. On these watches, the stone dials themselves are the main focus. The Quartzite has an almost electric energy to the glossy blue surface, while the Lavender Jade is much softer, with a subtle texture and semi-matte finish. Both bring a pop of color and a playful spirit to the Automatique, pairing perfectly with the serious watchmaking under the hood.

“I believe artistry and creativity must sit at the core – right alongside mechanical excellence,” says co-founder and creative director Pierre Biver. “Some dials may be technically complex, others emotionally resonant, but it’s the interaction, the dialogue between the idea and the execution, that makes each one special in its own way.”

With that in mind, these watches also offer something new for the Automatique – the pairing of a hard stone dial with gemstone hour markers. For the blue Quartzite model, these can be either Diamonds or Sapphires, while the Lavender Jade is paired exclusively with Diamonds. This makes for an incredible visual impact, but achieving this construction to our extremely high standards is no easy feat.  Each gemstone marker is baguette-cut, giving it great presence on the dial and allowing it to catch the light from nearly any angle. This both improves legibility and allows the natural beauty of the stones to shine through. To craft each dial, small holes must be carefully drilled in the Quartzite or Lavender Jade, risking cracking the material altogether. Then, after the chemin de fer is applied, each stone is invisibly set into a white gold setting, which is then secured to the dial itself.

Ultimately though, all of this is in service of creating a watch that delivers the maximum impact and pleasure to the person wearing it. “Despite the bold use of color, materials, and techniques – often disruptive by nature – there’s a consistent sense of wearability that runs through all the pieces,” says Pierre Biver. “I always design with the mindset of, ‘Would I wear this effortlessly?’ Because like all truly meaningful things in life, a watch should speak to you instantly. No matter how intricate or complex, it should feel like it’s always belonged.”